MILAN – Gucci resourceful director Alessandro Michele is celebrating the vogue house’s 100th anniversary this year, providing historic sweep to a collection unveiled just about Thursday that embraced its equestrian heritage, borrowed references from the Tom Ford-period and outright stole from the French brand name Balenciaga.
“Gucci was born beneath some kind of constellation, because the energy it holds is practically inexplicable,’’ Michele explained to a online video push convention.
The celebration party was set in a film-set edition of London’s Savoy Lodge, exactly where manner home founder Guccio Gucci got inspiration to return house to Florence and open up his individual leather-based products store, specializing in journey bags that he had admired doing work as a bellhop.
The collection was titled “Aria,” a reference to a different Italian development, lyric opera. Models walked down very long corridor runways outfitted with hundreds of flashing cameras nailed to the wall in the position of absent paparazzi. A medley of Gucci-themed pop music — proof, if desired, of the brand’s enduring relevance — furnished the soundtrack.
The to start with appear was a jag on Tom Ford’s 1996 purple velvet match, with a kinky leather-based harness more than a powder blue shirt. Michele said in notes that he had “plundered” the “sexual tension” of Ford’s decade at Gucci from 1994-2004.
“Tom comprehended correct from the starting that Gucci experienced some variety of magnetism, this cult electric power,” Michele mentioned.
Michele, who took in excess of as resourceful way of Gucci 6 several years back, put a fetishized spin on Gucci’s trademark equestrian references, like riding caps, fringed leather-based using crops and spit-polished boots mixed with glamorous sequined evening have on, or subverted with erotic sheer attire of symbol-emblazoned netting. Models dangled prolonged jewellery from their noses.
In just one of the collection’s most stunning turns, Michele borrowed, or hacked, appears to be like directly from Balenciaga, the Paris manner residence owned by the exact same father or mother business, Kering. They incorporated a edition of the Balenciaga Jackie bag and a glittery silver accommodate emblazoned with both Gucci and Balenciaga.
This was the very first assortment of 2021 for Gucci, which has still left the manner calendar and committed to only presenting two collections a calendar year. The online video presentation stuck strictly to the runway structure for the duration of a pandemic yr of experimentation that has all but shut down in-person exhibits.
Reflecting on the century marker, Michele reported Gucci’s magic is its skill to redefine by itself around time, unbeholden to any strictly described impression.
“I am hoping to renew for the millionth time this brand, this name, this fantasy, this saga, since Gucci is a complex container that retains quite a few, numerous matters,” Michele said.
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